Dumplings – my favorite food group

Dumplings are easily my favorite food group. As a confirmed food nerd, I have a deep seated love for all delicious edibles, but, for some reason, these little doughy packets of wonder have always held a special place in my heart. Growing up, my family had a tradition of going out to Dim Sum in the far flung reaches of Los Angeles’ outskirts. One of my father’s friends was a certifiable expert on authentic Chinese food, and he always took us to these improbably baroque restaurants tucked away in shopping centers with names like The Great Mall of China, where we would feast on dishes ranging from the familiar to the downright strange.

It was on these monthly excursions that I first developed my love of dumplings. I gravitated to them at first because of the ease with which I could lift them with chopsticks. Most of the restaurants we went to didn’t have forks available, and it was hard for a novice five-year-old to manage slippery dishes like noodles, or corral the little bits of rice and vegetables that skittered maddeningly away across the slick china plate at my approach. Dumplings, on the other hand, were easy. You could just stab them with one chopstick and nibble happily!

While my chopsticking abilities grew over time, my love of dumplings remained undiminished. In college, I explored the best New York’s extensive chinatown could offer, often spending sundays in the park with friends watching old men perform Chinese opera and teenagers play brutally competitive handball, as we munched away on great cardboard containers of crispy fried pork and scallion dumplings slicked with Siracha sauce and vinegar. I also branched out into the wider world of dumplings, enthusiastically sampling Polish pirogis, Tibetan mandu, Japanese gyoza, and even sweet Czech zwetschkentnodel.

I’m hardly the first person to be so enthused about the prospect of dumplings. In fact, they are one of the oldest, and most internationally beloved, forms of food in the world. Aside from the tasty examples I mentioned in the last paragraph, dumplings in one form or another can be found in almost every inhabited corner of the world, in variety of diversely delicious forms ranging from Italian ravioli to Indian samosas.

According to the Oxford companion to food, the modern word for dumpling first emerged in England some time in the 1600s, a low German word meaning “little lump.” They had been a popular food in England since the rule of King John, who was so fond of the doughy treats that he famously mandated that every Sunday morning, all the men in his court, from the highest lord to the lowest stable boy, would breakfast on wine and dumplings.

Of course, dumplings themselves had been around for much longer than that! The first cookbook on record, a tome by a famous Roman cook called Apicius, contained a recipe for meat and celery dumplings. And they have been a popular food in China since around 150 A.D. when, according to culinary legend, the famous herbalist Zhang Zhoing Jing developed a method of getting his more reluctant patients to swallow their bitter herbs by wrapping them in dough, and cooking the packets in a deliciously savory broth.

Dumplings quickly became an extremely popular snack food, particularly among merchants and other travelers on the silk road, who found the little packets conveniently easy to store in pockets and munch on as they walked along. It was these early silk road travelers who brought knowledge of dumpling making techniques to the rest of the world, where the basic method of wrapping something yummy in dough was interpreted in a variety of ways suited to a number of diverse local culinary cultures.

I’m on the road right now, and I have to admit that writing this article has left me with a serious craving for the kind of dumpling deliciousness I’ll likely be unable to find in this small town in Utah. So when I get home, maybe I’ll host a dumpling party, and have friends over to wrap, fold, steam, and gobble down as many dumplings as our stomachs can handle. What kind of dumplings should I make? Leave your suggestions in the comments, please, and hey, if they turn out well, maybe I’ll even mail you some!

Hanukkah – The miracle of the Latke

As someone who grew up in a household that celebrated any holiday that involved gifts and food, and went to a hippy school where I learned Kwanzaa songs alongside jinglebells, I always assumed that knowledge of Hanukkah was universal. But this weekend, when I found myself telling a tableful of friends about the Maccabees, I realized that a little bit of remedial education might be in order. After all, if you’re going to celebrate with a tableful of delicious Hanukkah food (which I highly recommend), you should know what you’re celebrating!

During the time of the Roman Empire, an armed conflict broke out between the government and the jews, who were a persecuted religious minority. Some of the Jewish people formed a militant group called the Maccabees, and resisted Roman forces. After much struggle, the Maccabees recaptured the major temple in the center of Jerusalem, only to find that the romans had filled it with statues of their gods, and used the alter for animal sacrifices. To purify the temple, Jewish law required that they burn ritual oil in the temple’s menorah (a kind of a candle holder) for eight days and nights. Although they only had enough oil for one night, the lamp burned continuously throughout the eight days, until the temple was purified.

During Hanukkah, jews celebrate the miracle of the menorah by lighting one candle a night over the course of eight nights in an eight pronged candelabra, and eating fried foods. And really, what better way to celebrate an oil lamp miracle is there? Eastern european ashkenazi jews often eat sufganiyot, little doughnuts stuffed with jelly, or other sweet fillings. Arabic sephardic jews may indulge in bricks a l’oeuf, savory puff pastry pockets, or burmuelos, a type of honeyed fritter. And then, of course, there is the Hanukkah treat to rule them all; the universally beloved latke.


Everyone will tell you that their bubbe (a jewish term of endearment for grandmothers) makes the world’s best latkes. But my bubbe, a lovely little woman named Betty, whose warmth and kindness was only matched by the deliciousness of her latkes, really did! She lived in a little apartment tucked away behind a glassed in courtyard, and when we went to her house for out annual Hanukkah celebration as children, I could swear I smelled the frying latkes from all the way down the hallway. So one year, when she invited me to come over early and help cook, I was so excited I could barely wait for Hanukkah to arrive.

If you think I’m going to share the specifics of Betty’s famed latke recipe with you guys, a crowd of internet strangers, than you are sadly mistaken.I have the distinct feeling that she wouldn’t be happy with me, and as nice as it would be to see Betty again, inviting a haunting by a vengeful grandmotherly ghost with access to hot oil isn’t exactly high on my holiday to do list! So instead, here’s a basic recipe for you to improvise with. Feel free to add and substitute to your heart’s desire; after all, that’s how classic latke recipes are born.

  1. Grate a whole mess of potatoes and onions in a bowl. My usual ratio is two potatoes for every onion, but it depends on the relative sizes of your potatoes and onions. If you have a food processor with a grater attachment, feel free to get fancy and use it for shredding, you lucky duck!

  2. Take the messy pile of grated veggies, sprinkle with salt, and leave it to drain in a colander, squishing it down periodically to get rid of excess moisture.

  3. Once the potatoes have drained, rinse them off, squeezing out the moisture with your hands one last time, and mix in ¼ cup of flour, matzo meal, or bread crumbs, and one egg for every two potatoes you used. Stir the mixture well with a wooden spoon until everything is combined.

  4. Heat any oil with a high smoke point, such as vegetable, peanut, or sunflower seed oil, in a heavy bottom frying pan. When the oil is hot, drop in a spoonful of the potato mixture, flattening it with the back of your spoon like a regular pancake, and flipping it after about a minute or so. Transfer finished latkes to a paper towel covered plate to drain.

This might seem like a lot of work, but keep in mind that you can fry the latkes well in advance and keep them warm in a heated oven to no ill effect until your guests arrive. In fact, this treatment can even make them a little crispier! Once you’re ready to serve them, I highly recommend pairing your latkes with the traditional accompaniments of sour cream and homemade applesauce. But be warned, latkes can be addictive, and I promise you’ll be surprised at how fast your piled high plate dwindles to nothing. It’s a good thing for our arteries that hanukkah only comes once (ok, eight times) a year!

Emily’s Coq au Vin

On the surface of things, the idea of making coq au vin in your tiny kitchen seems like an intimidating project to undertake. And while this is no Julia Child style multi-day process, I’m not gonna lie to you; this recipe will take up a good chunk of time, and is probably best made on a lazy, snowy weekend. But don’t worry, most of that time is spent hanging around watching television, and the end product unbelievably, inhumanly delicious.

It will make your friends ooh and ahh, you will feel like your mouth is on a miniature Parisian wintertime vacation, and best of all, it freezes really well in single serving portions, so you can come home late from work, throw it in the microwave, and feel like the world’s most impressive and together grown up person.

The ingredients (quite a list)…

To create this glorious concoction, you will need:

  • 21/2 cups of red wine (don’t worry about wasting the good stuff; I usually just throw in whatever three day old bottle of two buck chuck is mouldering away on the stovetop and it still tastes delicious)
  • 1 celery stick, halved
  • 1 carrot, quartered
  • 2 cloves of garlic
  • 1 large sprig fresh thyme, or a generous pinch of the dried stuff
  • A handful of flat leaf parsley
  • A few (like 3-5) peppercorns, or a couple of turns on the grinder’s worth
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 1 tbs olive oil
  • A package of skinless chicken thighs
  • One onion, chopped
  • A few (2-3) strips of bacon, chopped up into little bits
  • A handful of button mushrooms (however many you want to eat; I usually go for around half a package)
  • Some of those tiny little pearl onions (same as the mushrooms)
  • 1 towering tablespoon of flour
  • 1 cup stock (any kind is fine, and I often just use water then toss in a halved bullion cube)
  • 3 tbs brandy (again, the cheap stuff is fine; use whatever you’ve got lurking around the house)

… and the method

  1. Start by pouring your wine into a small pot, and adding the celery, carrot, garlic, thyme, a few sprigs of the parsley, peppercorns, and bay leaves. Put on high until it starts to boil, then simmer, uncovered, until the volume is reduced to about half of its original self.

  2. While you’re waiting for the winey liquid to reduce, put some oil in a large dutch oven, or any other large lidded pot you’ve got lying around, and brown the chicken pieces, salting them before you toss them in. Don’t worry about cooking them all the way through, you’ll be putting it on to simmer for a long time soon. Once the outside is nice and brown (sealing in the juices), take it out of the pan, and add the bacon, then the onion, cooking both until they’re soft. Then toss in the mushrooms and pearl onions (double onion types =double deliciousness), and push everything around together until it’s all starting to brown deliciously around the edges.

  3. Sprinkle the flour over the whole mess, and stir it in until it browns a little, along with everything else. Then pour in the stock (or water + bullion), and reduced wine, with the veggies and herbs strained out. Dump the chicken pieces in, put on the lid, turn the heat down as low as it can go, and cook for 45 minutes to an hour. To distract yourself from the delicious smells wafting up from the pot, I suggest you do like I do, and watch a bunch of old cartoons on the internet. This (click me) is a great place to start.

  4. Now comes the fun part. When everything is cooked, pour the brandy into a wide, shallow metal ladle, and turn the flame on your stove up as high as it can go. Hold the brandy filled ladle over the flame, and start swirling it around, tilting the edges until the whole thing bursts suddenly into bright blue flames. Then dump the brandy, still burning, into the pot, and stir it around. It will keep burning for a little bit as you stir, blue flames licking their way over everything, and you’ll finally feel like you’ve achieved your seven year old dream of being a witch. If things look a bit watery, turn the heat up to reduce it further, but there should be a good bit of (delicious) sauce in there, and it’s probably ready at this point.

  5. Throw some chopped parsley on the top, and voila! You have a delicious, soul warming stew that you can enjoy poured over egg noodles, rice, or (my favorite) buttery mashed potatoes. If you really want to go crazy, you can top it off, like I did last time, with a batch of Mexican hot chocolate pots du creme. Now sit down, unbutton your pants, and let the food coma commence!

Asian Leafy Greens

The Los Angeles neighborhood where I grew up was home to a deliciously multicultural clash of cuisines. Home to both little Armenia and Thai town, with a healthy sprinkling of Mexican corner stores and Korean owned French bakeries to boot, I grew up exploring the culinary secrets of the cultures that surrounded me. Now that I’ve moved to Vietnam, I’ve been tossed into even more in depth kitchen investigation, as I sample spices with indecipherable labels, puzzle out cooking instructions on packaged goods, and delve into the mysteries of my local farmer’s market. Listed below are five leafy greens I’ve discovered and fallen in love with, in the hopes that they will inspire your own kitchen investigation. Happy exploring!

Mizuna

This one is on request from John, who told me it was one ingredient whose providence and use continually baffled him. And if it’s too much for John, I thought, what hope is there for the rest of us? After all, the man edits a food website! But after a little translation work, and a Sunday morning spent poking around in my neighborhood markets, I discovered that mizuna is a member of the mustard family, traditionally consumed by the Japanese as a New Year’s delicacy. While the Japanese traditionally cook mizuna, tossing it into stir fries and hot pots, it’s peppery, arugula-like taste makes it an excellent addition to salads. My personal favorite use is to chop it up small and serve it with other baby and wild greens in a simple vinaigrette.

Bok Choy

The most common asian green, increasingly found in even the most conventional of supermarkets, Bok Choy has a mild flavor that makes it a great foil for complex, salty sauces. It’s delicious sauteed or steamed with aromatics like shallots, ginger, garlic, or onions, and makes an excellent side for baked fish and meat dishes. But be careful not to overcook your bok choy, as most of the specimens found in asian markets are the shoots of young plants, which still have a delicious snap to their stems. When overcooked they have a sad tendency to become slimy.

Pea Shoots

Pea shoots are some of the easiest and most delicious asian greens to cook with, and are particularly welcome because they are such a novelty for most people. They are tender little things, which are an excellent addition to salads, and pair beautifully with sashimi. But my personal favorite way to cook them is a method inspired my talented cook of a younger brother, who stir fries them quickly with a dash of soy or ponzu sauce, and a metric ton of garlic. Just remember to buy armloads more than you think you’ll need; pea shoots have a high water content and, like spinach, will shrink to nothing as soon as they encounter heat.

Chinese Cabbage

Also known as napa cabbage, chinese cabbage is the veggie on this list that is the most adaptable to non-Asian cuisines. It’s flavor is more subtle and less aggressively sock flavored than other cooked cabbages can be (and I say this as a lover of all things cruciferous), and has a uniquely savory flavor that works well with most other vegetables. In fact, it’s one of my favorite ingredients to use when I make minestrone, and is also delicious braised with cavolo nero and white beans and tossed over orecchiette (with plenty of parmesan cheese, please!).

Choy Sum

With its narrow green leaves and little yellow flowers, choy sum bares more than a passing resemblance to Italian rapini, but has a much less assertive flavor. The most traditional preparation for choy sum is to steam it and serve it with oyster sauce, and like all the other vegetables on this list, it stands up well to being stir fried. But like rapini, I think it works best with noodles. I like julienning it into narrow slices, and pairing it with sweet potatoes, whose sweetness provides a delightful contrast to choy sum’s bite, tossing the two together with toasted sesame seeds in an asian inspired lime, soy, and sesame oil dressing over cold udon noodles for the perfect easy office lunch or picnic food.

So there you have it, my five favorite asian greens. Have any favorites of your own? Recipes to share? Leave ‘em in the comments!

A Goose Fat Primer

Goose FatI used to babysit for a French family who, while lovely in all other respects, was simply terrible at buying groceries. Their fridge was a wasteland of wilted lettuce, sprouted potatoes, and lonely half nibbled blocks of cheese. And always nestled in the back, usually tucked up behind a single chicken breast and a half empty bottle of Cotes du Rhone, was a small container of goose fat.

I was always curious about the goose fat, but unsure as to what I could use it for. Instead I relied on the more familiar staples of butter and olive oil, until, one fateful afternoon, I needed to roast some of those sad sprouted potatoes. The olive oil was gone, and the butter needed for breakfast toast the next morning. My gaze fell upon the treacherous little pot of goose fat. “Might as well give it a try,” I thought. This is a vague approximation of the recipe I used; feel free to alter and edit to suit your tastes.


Goose Fat Potatoes

  1. Preheat the oven to 350 fahrenheit/180 celsius. While the oven is heating up, cut the potatoes into large chunks.

  2. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and toss in the chopped up potatoes for 5-10 minutes. While this is going on, melt a generous lump of solid goose fat in a roasting pan in the preheated oven, til it gets nice and hot.

  3. Drain the potatoes and toss them in with the fat, making sure to wear an apron to avoid the inevitable hot fat splatters. Add any other herbs or alliums you might be using at this point (in my case, unpeeled cloves of garlic and sage leaves, but I also recommend thyme, rosemary, shallots, or really anything your greedy little heart desires.)

  4. Roast for between 45 minutes to an hour, making sure to baste and turn your potatoes occasionally so they get evenly cooked. Remove, let cool slightly, and dig in!


The potatoes were a revelation. The goose fat had permeated their interiors and steamed them softly oily, while turning their skins golden and shatteringly crisp. I had thrown in a few cloves of garlic in their jackets, and the fat had done wonders for them as well. We slipped them out and smeared them all over the crispy potatoes. No one bothered to eat anything else that night.

Readily available in gourmet markets and specialty stores across Europe and the US, goose fat is an excellent introduction to the wild world of offal. Recently, it has become fashionable for carnivorous chefs to adopt a more traditional approach towards eating animals, relying on the lesser appreciated cuts of meat and squidgy strange delicious bits that were previously overlooked in favor of a single minded fondness for prime rib and filet mignon. With exotic bits of offal popping up on menus and in bucher departments with increasing frequency, cooking with goose (or duck) fat is a great way to experiment with the wild world of nose to tail cooking.

Although most animal fats make for delightful shortening, particularly lard, which is the ultimate secret ingredient for flakey pie crust, goose fat is notable for its assertive taste, making it a natural fit for starchy, naturally blander dishes that could use a little unami kick in the pants.

Aside from it’s magical power over roasted potatoes, melted goose fat provides a great base for frying latkes in, or using as shortening in savory dumplings and tart crusts. As such a natural match for carb heavy winter comfort food, goose fat is an especially excellent pantry addition this time of year, when fall turns slowly into winter, and darkness descends quickly on increasingly rainy nights.

Stale croissants

When I lived in New York, there was a tiny Japanese bakery off Saint Mark’s place that had a great deal. If you went in before noon, they would sell you a big bag of yesterday’s baked goods for a ridiculously low price. Sometimes the bag would be filled with crispy little sourdough rolls, or a sliced half loaf of whole grain bread. Often they were trying to get rid of more fragile baked goods; buttery bits of crumbled shortbread cookies, or a slightly squashed blueberry muffins. But or me, the jackpot was a bag of beat up day old croissants, something most other customers probably considered a waste of fifty cents. After all, the joy of a really good croissant comes from the buttery freshness of it, the warm just-out-of-the-oven elasticity. And when I told my French friends about it, they were predictably horrified. “What,” they wanted to know, “Can you possibly do with a stale croissant?” As it turns out, quite a lot!

I first discovered the beauty of old croissants during a freak snowstorm in October of last year, when my roommate was out of town, the heating hadn’t yet been turned on, and my lack of proper snow boots made leaving the apartment a risky proposition at best. So I scrounged around for sustenance in the neglected corners of our pantry, making minestrone from the limp old root vegetables in the crisper, bread from the slightly damp flour on top of the fridge, and even a lovely little cake from the apples I found softening on top of our untuned piano. One of my discoveries was a bag of slightly stale supermarket croissants. I suffered through one with a cup of tea, but quickly realized that they weren’t any good on their own. So I started experimenting!


My easiest, and most unexpected, discovery was the wonder that is croissant French toast. To make it, you prepare your favorite French toast batter, which in my case includes a splash of vanilla, a sprinkling of cinnamon, and, when I’m feeling indulgent, a bit of Grand Mariner. Then halve and dunk the croissant, making sure it’s well soaked, and cook it as you would normal French toast, giving it a bit longer to cook before flipping. Served with a little bit of maple syrup (grade B please!), the result is nothing short of magical, creamy and puddinglike on the inside, with a crisp, buttery exterior. Top it off with some fresh berries, good coffee, and a few rashers of bacon and you have a breakfast that joyfully destroys even the remotest threat of a productive afternoon.


My other old croissant discovery was a little more predictable, though just as delicious as the french toast. As it turns out, torn up chunks of croissants make an ideal basis for a bread pudding dreams are made of, fluffy, rich, and light, with no hint of the sometimes stodgy nursery food depths to which the dish can sometimes fall. The recipe I used, which was a rip off of something I found in a Nigella Lawson book I had brought home from the library, is as follows:

  1. First, figure out how many croissants you want to use, and adjust the ingredients accordingly.

  2. Tear up the croissants and put them in a baking dish of some sort. I used a bread pan, but really, anything ovenproof is fair game. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees celcius (standard baking things temperature).

  3. Melt 1⁄4 cup sugar (per croissant) in one tablespoon of water per croissant, stirring til things start to bubble and slowly caramelize.

  4. Then take the caramel off the heat, and stir in 1⁄4 cup whole milk per croissant, and one beaten egg for each croissant.

  5. Pour it over the stale croissant bits and let them soak it up like delicious little sponges before popping the delightful mess in the oven for fifteen to twenty minutes.

Oh, and if you’ve made more than two croissants worth, do try to share!

How McDonalds is posh in China

McDonalds ChinaIn much of Europe and the United States, yuppie up and comers trying to show off their sophistication and street cred often become self proclaimed foodies, buying guanciale and unpasteurized cheeses from tiny shops, sipping microbrewed beers, baking their own bread, and arguing over the merits of various kinds of bitters. Seeking out and enjoying “authentic” food, particularly the working class basics of a culture not your own, is seen as a signifier of both refinement and a certain brand of edgily self aware authenticity. In urban areas across America, young people spend their weekends seeking out the spiciest curries, the fluffiest injera, the furthest flung dim sum.

But in China, where capitalism is still a novelty, and American products and pop culture have become massively popular, the opposite approach holds. Scorning readily available and delicious local staples like hand pulled noodles, tender dumplings, and Peking barbeque, the Chinese upper and middle classes consider American chain restaurants the ultimate symbol of sophisticated westernization. In some ways, the Chinese turn towards relatively expensive trips to McDonalds mirrors the western preoccupation with authentic lowerclass food from other cultures. In both cases, adopting a foreign cuisine shows that you are a citizen of the world, well traveled and cosmopolitan, sophisticated and unique enough to break with the provincial traditions of your homeland.

When McDonalds opened their Bejing location on April 23, 1992, it was the largest fast food restaurant in the world; and supply was still quickly outstripped by demand. In fact, opening week was so popular that there were lines around the block, and the restaurant ran out of food several times. Community newspapers around the country even ran features with pictures of locals who had traveled to the city for the big event. And this popularity wasn’t fleeting. By the end of the year McDonalds had opened several more locations across the city, all of which were regularly packed with customers. Although Chinese customers say that they still consider local food more appealing, and rate other American chains like KFC higher on qualifications like taste and cost, McDonalds is still seen as the fast food chain that is the most emblematic of Western values.

Unlike Americans, who mostly see dinner at McDonalds as a last resort for nights when money’s tight and the kids are whining, for Chinese families, eating at McDonalds is a special occasion. For one thing, meals are relatively expensive there, costing upwards of 200 yuan (or around thirty dollars), a not insignificant cost in a country where you can still score street food snacks for less than a dollar. But price isn’t the only issue. Families also see McDonalds as a great place to educate their children about foreign tastes, manners, and habits, making it an ideal venue for weekend lunches and birthday parties. Many parents believe that teaching their children an appreciation for Western food, culture, and mannerisms at an early age will serve them well as adults in an increasingly globalized world.

In fact, McDonalds has become a popular hangout for Chinese people of all ages. Teenagers who want to impress their girlfriends will while away the afternoon enjoying the air conditioning and relaxed atmosphere where, unlike traditional restaurants, they aren’t expected to order more than a single order of fries or a soda to share. And it is an especially popular destination for young women who want to eat alone or in groups, but feel unwelcome in more conventional special occasion restaurants, where the men in a group are traditionally in charge of ordering, and unchaperoned women are assumed to have a bad reputation.

Many of the Chinese patrons of the restaurant say they like the way McDonalds removes the element of competition that is so often present in formal restaurants, where everyone drinks and smokes inside, and waiters will sometimes heap scorn on you for ordering a less expensive set of dishes than neighboring tables. Strangely enough, McDonalds in China has become what it claims to be in America, a true family restaurant, and a bastion of democratic values where patrons are all treated alike, and every meal is a cause for celebration.

Recently, a photograph of a young American man sitting down for a meal on the streets of Nanjing with a local beggarwoman became hugely popular on Chinese social media, where people wrote about how they considered the image emblematic of American values of good samaritanism, as opposed to the increasing breakdown of social concern many locals feel is occurring in fast-paced modern China. The food they were eating? McDonalds French Fries, of course.

Herb or spice?

John surprised me this week when we were talking about article topics. In the midst of a list of fairly straightforward ideas was the headline, “The Difference Between Herbs and Spices: There has to be one, I’m just not entirely sure what the definition is.” I stopped scrolling down and thought about it. I realized that I (like most people), had absolutely no idea!

So what exactly is the difference between a herb and a spice? And is there, in fact a difference at all? Your friendly neighborhood Pork and Gin reporter delved into the depths of the culinary hive mind to find out.

Prior to starting research on this article, I had assumed that the difference between herbs and spices was entirely subjective. I even conducted a highly informal poll of my friends, sending out a group text asking about the position in the herb/spice camp of a few popular flavorings. Some categorizations were universally agreed upon (basil was clearly an herb, not a spice), but most were hotly contested. Were chili flakes an herb (comes from a plant!), or a spice (freeze dried in a jar!). What about seasonings like rosemary, thyme, and sage, which can be found fresh, dried, and powdered? Or blends like curry powder? Everyone had their own opinion.

In fact, after a little internet research, there is a clear and simple difference between the two. Apparently, an herb is any seasoning obtained from the leaves of a herbacious plant. That’s where the name comes from! Spices, on the other hand are obtained from a variety of sources, including roots, flowers, seeds, and bark.

Now ; a quick quiz to test your seasoning knowledge. I’ll give you a list of some seasonings, and you guess whether they are technically an herb or a spice. Answer key at the bottom!

  1. Lemongrass

  2. Cinnamon

  3. Salt

  4. Cumin

  5. Black pepper

  6. Mint

  7. Curry Powder

  8. Rosemary

  9. Chili flakes

  10. Dill

[accordion collapse=yes] [panel title="Click here for answers"]

  1. Herb. That deliciously lemony stalk of wood you find floating in your thai curries is actually a flavored perennial grass, technically a herbaceous plant.

  2. Spice. Cinnamon comes from the bark, not the leaves, of a tree, putting it firmly in the spice camp.

  3. Neither! Salt is a mineral, putting it in another class entirely.

  4. Spice. Cumin is the seed of a flowering plant.

  5. Spice, and the world’s most widely traded one at that! Black peppercorns are the dried fruit of a flowering vine native to tropical regions.

  6. Herb. The most commonly used bit of the mint plant is its delicious leaves.

  7. Surprisingly, curry is an herb, sourced from the aromatic leaves of a curry tree. However, most commercially available curry powders are a complex blend of various delicious herbs and spices.

  8. Herb. While the woody stalks and roots of the rosemary plants are great for grilling over, they’re far too tough to be eaten on their own. Only the tender young needle like leaves are typically consumed.

  9. Spice. Chili flakes come from pulverized, dried chili peppers, which are themselves fruit.

  10. Another trick question! It depends on which part of the plant you use. If you use the leaves or stalk of the plant, it counts as an herb. But the seeds are a spice!

  11. [/panel] [/accordion]


    If you mastered the quiz, congratulations! Now you have more useless knowledge to entertain your dinner guests with. And if some of the answers of this quiz surprised you, don’t worry! The cook’s most important job is simply knowing what’s delicious.

McGlobal adaptions

Ron and the worldWhen I think of McDonalds, like most Westerners, I have a very specific image in mind. In the United States, McDonald’s is the restaurant of the huddled masses, a place people go when they are too tired, lazy, or poor to cook, or simply feeling nostalgic for that particular kind of deliciously greasy trashiness. You don’t go to McDonalds because you want to, you go because you have to, either because its the cheapest thing around, or because you have a shameful but compelling craving for a Mcsomething-or-other. And it’s addictive stuff, I have vegan friends who sneak off once or twice a year for their beloved sausage McMuffin; foodie friends who will shamefully admit to being excited about the return of the McRib.

But America isn’t the only country to have a McObsession. McDonalds has been one of the most profitable and fastest growing restaurant chains in history, thanks in large part to their highly successful global strategies. While preserving iconic aspects like the golden arches and restaurant design, McDonalds restaurants around the world vary significantly, each with highly researched individual menus, employee practices, and handling processes to accommodate the desires of various international markets.

McDonalds menus around the world are highly adaptable and based on local taste preferences and culinary traditions. In India, where Hindus make up nearly eighty percent of the population, beef is definitely off the menu. Instead, Indian McDonalds customers can sample McVersions of traditional staples like tandori chicken and a vegetarian aloo gobi burger made with potatoes. The company serves neither beef (bye bye big mac), nor pork (sayonara mcrib), to avoid offending both their Muslim and Hindu customers.

Some of the menu differences are purely gastronomic. In Germany, where the brews make the meal, McDonalds not only serves up McVersions of staples like sausages and shnitzle, but offers customers the chance to accompany their meal with a cold pint or two. And Asian countries like Japan and Hong Kong are home to locally inspired specialties like fried shrimp nuggets, green tea milkshakes, and hamburgers with rice cakes standing in for the more traditional bun. You can even opt for noodle soup topped with a sausage and egg for breakfast!

Aside from their gastronomic adaptations, McDonalds makes sure that their restaurants conform to the cultural quirks of the various countries they operate in, from the most important cultural beliefs, to the tiniest quirks of accepted behaviors. For example, Israel is home to a handful of all kosher McDonalds, where there’s nary a cheeseburger in sight. They have opened a handful of all-vegetarian outlets in majority Buddhist and Hindu countries catering to their more religiously observant customers. And in some middle eastern countries, there are separate seating areas for unmarried men and women. Some of the more amusing minor cultural changes include the statues of Ronald McDonald in Thailand locations, which pose in a traditional Thai welcoming gesture, hands in a prayer position, French locations offering big macs on baguettes, and even a branch in a Swedish town with a “ski-through” window.

In the upcoming weeks, we will be taking a closer look at McDonalds in a variety of countries around the world, starting with the way McDonalds has become a signifier of sophistication and westernized tastes among China’s upper and middle classes.

Are there other countries you’d like us to cover? Other chains that deserve a closer look? Let us know in the comments section!

Cà phê sữa đá (Vietnamese coffee)

Whenever I tell someone I’m living in Vietnam, they say one of two things. Some lament the heat, and say something about enormous bugs and unexploded land mines. But others smile sympathetically. “Lucky you,” they say, “getting to drink so much Vietnamese coffee!”

And the coffee here is indeed a spectacular thing to behold. If you’re lucky, you get to have it beautifully brewed at your table in the traditional manner, which you get in the more old fashioned cafes, with a little metal turret slowly dripping freshly brewed espresso onto the generous caramelized slick of condensed milk filling the glass below.
Sadly, this method is uncommon in fast paced Saigon, but you still see countless stands and mobile vendors dispensing “cà phê sữa đá” (iced coffee with milk) to hurried passers by.

The old European coffee house culture is alive and well in Vietnam. Some of the happiest and most relaxed Saigon residents are often old men who haunt the cafes, spending their days playing Go and smoking endless cigarettes while watching the passing motorcycles, and it’s common practice for visiting foreigners to join in, hiding from the intense heat of afternoon with a good book and a cold cup of coffee. Strangely, many of the nicer cafes serve their coffee with a complimentary glass of iced green tea, just in case the coffee wasn’t enough of a caffeine wallop for you already!

Like banh mi and biere larue, Vietnamese coffee is the beloved child of the unhappy union between French colonial nostalgia, American capitalist innovation, and the tropical Vietnamese palate. French colonists first brought coffee beans to Vietnam in the 1800s, where they quickly flourished in the damp equatorial heat. As they built classically French houses and offices, and widened the streets of Saigon and Hanoi to resemble sweeping Haussmanian boulevards, the French also imported their beloved cafe culture. At first, only colonists could afford to while away their afternoons in fan cooled coffee houses, but within a few years, the daily ritual of coffee consumption became an established part of Vietnamese society.

Unfortunately, for many years the French, and the new Vietnamese coffee converts, were only able to enjoy their coffee black. Inadequate refrigeration technology meant that unless you lived in the countryside with direct access to a cow, there was no way to enjoy a cafe au lait with breakfast, or a noisette of steamed milk with your afternoon espresso.

In 1820, however, a minor miracle occurred. Nicholas Appert, a Frenchman living in Paris, developed a method to preserve foodstuffs in glass bottles by vacuum sealing and heating the contents to kill germs and halt the progress of decay. In 1853 an American named Gail Borden Jr. perfected the method, and, by storing his milk in cans rather than bottles, made it possible for milk to be kept stable for months, even years at a time, long enough to survive the long sea voyage to the colonies. And cà phê sữa đá was (deliciously) born.

If reading this article is giving you an uncontrollable craving for some delicious Vietnamese coffee (and why wouldn’t it), you have a few delicious options. Wherever there is a population of Vietnamese immigrants, you will be able to find a fairly credible rendition of Vietnamese coffee, usually iced, and served out of styrofoam cups in the in the backs of unassuming takeaway shops. Since Vietnam produces so much coffee for export anyway, you can probably even be reasonably assured that you’re drinking Vietnamese coffee beans!

If you want to have diy cà phê sữa đá at home (perhaps as an accompaniment to some homemade spring rolls!), just brew yourself a double shot of extra dark, nearly bitter espresso, and slowly pour it into a glass bolstered with a generous dollop of condensed milk, either plain or topped with ice. Stir slowly, watching the chaotic interplay of light and dark gradually subside, until you’re left with a light caramel liquid. Now sit back, close your eyes, and sip.

Oh, and for added authenticity, I suppose you could always crank the heat up and play a relaxing soundtrack of motorbike horns! Either way, an afternoon cup of cà phê sữa đá is the closest you can get to Vietnam without malaria tablets.